After dem find rare collection of big-time Silk Road artefacts, one family for Himalayas don open museum wey dey focus on one of di legendary traders wey dey last for di route. Muzzamil Hussain dey school when di first bombs drop for di playground wey dey outside im classroom for Kargil, one mountain city for India side of Ladakh. As di 1999 Kargil war between Pakistan and India dey unfold, Hussain and im family run go south to di far Suru Valley. After India sabi dem win di war later dat year and di displaced families don go back, Hussain dey listen as im grandpapa wey dey sick dey ask di family make dem check one old house wey im great-grandpapa build near Kargil bazaar to see if e still dey. When Hussain uncles manage open rusty latch and peek inside di hand-carved wooden doors, dem find wooden crates wey get names of cities from every corner of di world. Dem clear space for di dusty floor, and di family start to lay out silks from China, silver pots from Afghanistan, rugs from Persia, turquoise from Tibet, saddles from Mongolia and luxury soaps from London, New York and Munich. Dem don find empty treasure house – one collection wey go soon become one of di best family-owned collection of Silk Road artefacts for India and one discovery wey go change di direction of Hussain life. Dat one happen 25 years ago. Today, centuries after e don provide important but heavy road for Silk Road traders, di Himalayan mountain pass of Zoji La wey connect Kashmir to Ladakh still dey known as one of di most dangerous roads for di world. On top di recent visit, my palms dey sweat as our 4×4 dey groan as e dey climb higher for di mountain side.
I glance nervously outside di window towards one glaciated peak wey dey eye level and di valley floor wey dey more than 1,000m below. No matter how I fit press my nose against di window, I no fit find di edge of di dirt road; just air and long fall wey go take. For front passenger seat, Hussain dey text one of the many businesses wey him and him family dey run, dem get two hotels, two museums, one conservation NGO and tour guide service. Dis one na normal waka for am, and him family don dey do am for many years. I first meet Hussain for 2023 as I dey search for snow leopards for eastern Ladakh. As I dey sip pink Kashmiri noon chai for snow dey fall for 4,265m, him dey yarn me stories of in own special link to Silk Road. Him flashbacks start with war, dance with buried treasure and end for reconciliation. As archaeologist wey love mountain history, I need learn more, so two years later, I find myself for Zoji La, dey follow the footsteps of Silk Road traders wey, like us, dey hope make dem reach Kargil before night catch dem. The mountainous area of Ladakh dey for the western corner of Himalayas, among the borders wey India, Pakistan and China dey argue.
Big big mountains, steep valleys and wide alpine plateaus dey rule the area. Fields of barley dey cover sandy floodplains; white apple and apricot flowers dey shine by Indus River; and on top the ridges, snow leopards and Himalayan brown bears dey move like ghosts dey search for their next food. Because of the location wey dey for commerce and fight, modern Ladakh dey full of mix cultures including Tibetan Buddhists, Muslims and some tribal groups. The Silk Road no be just one of the world biggest trade routes – e connect Europe to far East Asia for 6,400km. Though dem name am because of the Chinese silk wey Roman big men dey import for 1st Century AD, the trade system don dey exist long before. When dem build am, the network dey help carry ideas, religions, goods and money across the old world.
When dem cut off link between Europe and East Asia for 1453 as the Ottomans no wan trade with China, small parts of Silk Road still dey flourish for places like Ladakh till 20th Century. A few days after we cross Zoji La wey e dey raise heart, me and Hussain dey chill for small cafe for Kargil dey chop dal and dey sip masala chai. As Islamic prayer dey ring around Zanskar mountains and smoke from bakery dey flow, Hussain tell me why im family decide to protect their great-grandfather’s treasure.
Best way to feel Kargil Silk Road history na to drive follow ancient route from Leh or Srinagar. For Kargil, plenty artefacts dey for Munshi Aziz Bhat Museum wey show correct history of the route. Just outside town, stone-carved Greco-Buddhist style buddhas from 5th Century dey show how the area connect with Central Asia and Mediterranean. For deeper experience, Roots Ladakh dey offer 10-day Silk Road expedition wey follow the route from Srinagar to Leh through Zoji La and Kargil.
At first, Hussain family no sure wetin to do with the ancient things. For 2002, Florida Atlantic University anthropologists Dr Jacqueline Fewkes and Nasir Khan hear say plenty tings dey and come meet Hussain and im family. Dem sabi the importance of the artefacts, so dem encourage the family make dem preserve am for future pikin. With Hussain two uncles as director and curator, the family open Munshi Aziz Bhat Museum for central Kargil where people fit explore hundreds of Silk Road artefacts from 18th-Century Ladakhi sheep-horn bows to 19th-Century Chinese copper water pipes. To Fewkes, na di personal stories and family connection to di collection make this museum special and important.
